Costing anywhere between ₹1,200 to a ₹1 lakh, the fish from Perumanadu farm draw well-heeled customers from Rajasthan, Goa, Chennai, Delhi and other big cities.

Even in Japan, this would be considered a beautiful samurai home and garden. It deserved higher quality fish.” Zuritsky knows his fish. He has bred koi for almost two decades and has been a judge in ...