W hen Andrew Evans drops his baited line in the river shallows near here, dozens of crabs get a hankering for a chicken neck. He makes lightning-fast swipes with a long-handled net, his swinging arms ...

No. 1 male crabs are those that measure at least 6 1/2 inches from point to point. In Maryland, consumers will pay almost any price for No. 1s, so most of those caught in Louisiana's waters end up in ...